Kailash Yatra That Changed My Soul

I have always felt that there are certain journeys which pick you. In 2025, the journey to Kailash Mansarovar picked me. After being suspended for five long years, the Ministry of External Affairs initiated the journey once again and invited applications. A lucky draw was held amongst thousands of devotees. As my name cropped up amongst the 750 selected devotees, I did not feel lucky, I felt picked. For Hindus, Kailash is more than a mountain. It is the abode of Lord Shiva. It is the center of the Universe. And I was heading there.

We started and ended our journey at Kailash Bhawan in Ghaziabad. What happened in the intervening 22 days, is hard to describe. But I will give it a shot. The Ministry ensured that we were looked after with extraordinary care. There were resolute officers who escorted us every day during our yatra. We also had the honor of having former Minister of External Affairs Meenakshi Lekhi travelling with us. It only added to the significance of the journey. As soon as we crossed Pithoragarh and stepped into Tibet, I felt a transformation happen within me.

Our first major stop on our journey was Darchen. On the way, we had come across Rakshas Tal, the legendary lake that is mentioned in all Hindu scriptures as the lake of demon king Ravana, with its water being so salty that it is not fit for drinking. All the devotees in our group were looking at the lake from the top of the ridge. Suddenly, I got a strong urge. I decided to rappel down and reach the water’s edge. I went down alone. I cupped the water in my palms and tasted it. It was sweet. I stood there in utter shock. I could not comprehend what was happening. I came back up and told the group. None of them believed me. So, I went down once again, collected a bottle of the water, and brought it up. Everybody tasted it. Everybody went silent. There was no explanation. Even today, I have none. Perhaps some experiences can never be explained.

The Parikrama of Kailash, the sacred journey, started at Yam Dwar. On day one, we travelled from Darchen to Dirapuk (20 kms). When we reached there, we could see the north face of Kailash in front of us. Something I had been seeing in pictures all my life, but nothing can prepare you for actually seeing it in real life. I climbed up a little higher to get closer and closed my eyes. I thought of Lord Shiva. I remembered every holy place that I have visited in my life. 

The Panch Kailash peaks, all five Kedars shrines and all Jyotirlingas that I have done over the years. I offered it all at his feet. When I opened my eyes and looked at the mountain, I saw Lord Shiva’s vahana Nandi, seated on the face of Kailash Mountain, in the exact posture you see in all Shiva temples. I stood there and felt that Mahadev had blessed me. That night I could not sleep.

The second day of the Parikrama was toughest – Dirapuk to Zuthulpuk crossing the Dolma La Pass which is at over 5600 meters. We started at 5.30 in the morning. For ten whole hours we travelled up steep hills, then freezing cold at the top, followed by steep downhill and flat land that seems to go on forever. Somewhere along the way my body said ‘No’. I stopped. Closed my eyes, called out to Lord Shiva in my heart and walked the next step. And the one after that. We reached Zuthulpuk at 7.30 in the evening. I sat down and breathed. Day three was just the return to Darchen (7 kms) and we finished by noon. Our Parikrama of Kailash was over.

But the most beautiful experience awaited us. We headed to Mansarovar Lake, the holy lake that lies at the base of Kailash, crystal clear and impossibly still. We stayed there for an entire day. I waded into the water, cupped it in my hands, and poured it on myself. I stood there silently in the lake, closed my eyes, and said in my heart: “Mahadev, if you are really here with me, let me feel it.” As I opened my eyes and moved my hand gently through the water, a bell arose in my palm- a bell covered with Sanskrit mantras. None of the others found anything. Only me. I held it in my hands and I could not talk. I still have it.

Twenty-two days after starting from Kailash Bhawan in Ghaziabad, I returned to the same gate. Same building. But I was not the same person anymore. If you are a devotee of Lord Shiva and Kailash Mansarovar picks you- apply (May 2026). 

Enter your name in the lucky draw. Sometimes Mahadev chooses you himself.

Disclaimer: The opinions and views expressed in this article/column are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views or positions of South Asian Herald.

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